NARS Scarlet Empress & Force Speciale Lipsticks Reviews & Swatches

Scarlet Empress

NARS Scarlet Empress Lipstick ($26.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a deep, muted plum with subtle, cool undertones and a semi-matte finish. It wore down to a truer matte finish within an hour of wear. The texture was lightweight, thin but not clingy but there was a smidgen of product that sank into my deeper lip lines, though it wasn’t noticeable at a normal viewing distance. It had semi-opaque pigmentation that was buildable to full coverage with a second layer. The lipstick was firmer, stiffer in the tube, so it tugged a bit when applied initially but wasn’t uncomfortable to apply (I’d just recommend shorter strokes rather than a fluid stroke). It stayed on well for six hours, left a faint stain behind, and felt neither drying nor moisturizing while worn.

Top Dupes

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MAC Viva Glam III (P, $19.50) is more shimmery, darker, more muted (85% similar).
NARS Trashed (LE, $27.00) is lighter, warmer (85% similar).
NARS Spike (LE, $27.00) is warmer (85% similar).
Anastasia #5 (Vol. 1) (PiP, ) is darker, more muted, warmer (85% similar).
YSL Violet Conviction (15) (P, $36.00) is darker (85% similar).
Make Up For Ever M102 (P, $22.00) is lighter, warmer (85% similar).
Urban Decay Nonsense (LE, $18.00) is lighter, warmer (80% similar).
Pat McGrath Executive Realness (P, $38.00) is lighter, warmer (80% similar).
NARS Vivien (P, $34.00) is more shimmery, lighter, glossier (80% similar).
Tarte Escape (P, $21.00) is lighter, warmer (80% similar).

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Formula Overview

$26.00/0.12 oz. - $216.67 Per Ounce

NARS has reformulated their core lipstick range, which now includes 72 shades across three finishes: matte, sheer, and satin. The formula is supposed to go on "smoothly and evenly with a light feel" that is "long-lasting" and "resistant to bleeding and feathering." The sheer finish has "subtle, sheer color that shines," while the satin finish has "creamy rich color" and the matte finish has "intense color with a velvety finish."

The matte finish has a very thin, featherweight feel to it, but they didn't feel clingy or too prone to dragging during application, though they were definitely a firmer texture in the tube. There was enough glide from the inclusion of dimethicone (first ingredient for the matte finish) that went on evenly, felt velvety but didn't feel as powder-like as some of the other more silicone-heavy matte lipstick formulas that have been released in the last couple of years. Most shades were pigmented and nearly opaque to opaque. The wear ranged from three to six hours with deeper, richer shades staying on a bit longer and leaving slight stains. They were comfortable to wear but felt more non-drying than particularly hydrating.

The satin finish has more slip, feels thicker (though not actually thick or heavy) compared to the matte finish, and of course, there was subtle to light shine/sheen. They applied smoothly, comfortably, and for the most part, went on evenly and didn't sink noticeably into my lip lines but there was some variance between shades. They were typically semi-opaque to opaque in coverage with four to six-hour wear that was lightly hydrating.

The sheer finish had coverage that ranged from semi-sheer to true medium coverage but most had some translucency to them, which gave them a sheerer finish. I found most of the shades I tried were buildable to some degree. The texture was a bit firmer, but they felt more emollient and "melted" a bit more against my lips than I recall the original line of lipsticks doing. Some shades applied well with even application and were flattering on, but there were a few that sank more noticeably into my lip lines. This finish tended to wear between three and five hours.

I don't have many of NARS' original lipsticks in my stash (I have mostly Audacious as they haven't been releasing many in the core range) to compare to. The matte finish was definitely thinner, more matte, and had a velvetier look on lips compared to the original which had a subtle sheen to it. The satin finish seemed a bit more pigmented and not quite as luminous/glossy as the previous formula, while the sheer finish was creamier, more emollient, and was easier to apply. It didn't feel like a vastly different formula, but it felt a bit easier to work with (smoother, more emollient but still lighterweight and thin, far less slip than any of the Audacious range) and was more comfortable to wear across the board for me.

I didn't notice any scent or taste, though there is "fragrance (parfum)" listed in the ingredients--it smelled neutral, not waxy but I just didn't get any scent.

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Ingredients

Dimethicone, Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene, Isohexadecane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Microcrystalline Wax/Cera Microcristallina/Cire Microcristalline, Kaolin, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax/Candelilla Cera/Cire De Candelilla, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Polysilicone-11, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydroxyapatite, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Propylene Carbonate ·Simethicone, Bht, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance (Parfum), Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, [+/- ( May Contain): Bismuth Oxychloride (Ci 77163), Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491), Iron Oxides (Ci 77492), Iron Oxides (Ci 77499), Mica, Red 28 Lake (Ci 45410), Red 33 Lake (Ci 17200), Red 6 (Ci 15850), Red 7 Lake (Ci 15850), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Yellow 5 Lake (Ci 19140), Yellow 6 Lake (Ci 15985)].

Scarlet Empress

Product

Pigmentation

Texture

Longevity

4.5

Application

88%

Total

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Force Speciale

NARS Force Speciale Lipstick ($26.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a deep red with strong, cool blue undertones and a semi-matte finish. It had nearly opaque color payoff in a single layer, which adhered evenly and didn’t emphasize my lip lines, though the actual product tugged slightly during application (though not painfully). The consistency was lightweight, very thin but not prone to clingy, and was comfortable to wear. The color was still going strong after six hours of wear and left a fuchsia stain behind, while the formula felt neither drying nor hydrating over time.